Kendrick & Davis K&D Friction Jeweling Tools for the 18R Deluxe & a Tutorial

The K&D Model 18R Deluxe came with three separate jeweling sets. They include those pictured below:

321 – Seven Friction Jewel Subpunches
322B – 18 Jewel Size Reamers and Holder
324 – Six Hollow Friction Jeweling Stumps

I bought these sets separately. I don’t like the 18R box as it created difficulty when I reached for punches. The reamers have sharp ends and I found myself hitting them. On occasion, I cut myself. Also, I don’t use jeweling tools that often.

I also prefer the 600 series and the No. 17 staking frames. My jeweling tools stay in a drawer.

Below is a tutorial I posted in an earlier post. It may help you understand the use of these tools.

What’s Friction Jeweling any way?

In 1924, Hamilton took credit for the first improvement in jeweling since Nicolas Facio patented the use of jewels in watches in 1704. Hamilton called their system “improved jeweling”. Now, the Swiss claim they invented friction jeweling, but they haven’t produced any names or dates to substantiate their claim that I can find.

Let’s look at what Hamilton said. First, they claimed that as a result of years of experimentation and research, that they came up with the “Hamilton Improved Friction Jeweling” method.

They then demonstrated it on the 989 18/0 watch movement.

While difficult to decipher from the image above, the 989 did not have bezel rings holding their jewels in place. You can see the difference in the two types of jeweling methods in the photos below.

Hamilton released its first 987 caliber wristwatch movement with beveled edged jewels.This method held the jewels in with a screw-held ring. If you take a close look at the image on the left, then you can see two small screws holding a ring over each jewel. Hamilton released the next version of the 987 with friction jewels after the 989 proved it worked.

Little information exists on who actually manufactured the first friction jewels. Since Hamilton bought their jewels from Swiss companies, we can guess that the jewels came from Switzerland. Regardess, design and manufacturing techniques for watch jewels improved around the time Hamilton produced the 989 and subsequently. the 987E. Hamilton began using jewels able to hold their position with friction alone, which cut down on time and effort to manufacture and service movements.

In this small post, we can look at how K&D and Moseley recommended replacing friction jewels.

The method for replacing a broken or dysfunctional jewel involves:

Measuring
Knocking out the old jewel and
Setting a new jewel.

Once you discover the simplicity of friction jeweling, anxiety about it will fade. Let’s go through the steps so we can move forward in our understanding of watch maintenance and repair.

1. Select a jeweling stump with a hole larger than the jewel needing replacement. Place the stump in the die plate of your staking tool and center.

2. Select a pusher smaller than the jewel needing replacement. Place the pusher in its holder and secure it in the frame sleeve.

Staking Frame with Micrometer

3. With the exception of Balance Jewels, use the pusher to adjust the micrometer. For example, place a watch bridge on the stump facing up. Rest the pusher on the old jewel and adjust your micrometer to limit the movement of the pusher. Jot down the setting on a piece of paper and use it when setting the depth for the replacement jewel.

4. Lower the micrometer stop and press on the old jewel to remove it.

5. If you have friction type jewel with an undamaged hole, skip the next two steps.

6. If you need to refinish the hole, pick out one of the reamers. Make sure it is large than the existing hole.

7. You can now ream the jewel hole for your replacement jewel.

8. Again, use the holder for the reamer and place it through the staking frame’s sleeve.

9. Don’t let the reamer go further than a millimeter into the hole.

10. Turn it to create a smooth and appropriate size hole.

11. Use a cone miller to remove any burrs from the edges of the hole.

12. Now, you can place the jewel in the reamed out hole. Make sure the oil cup is face down.

13. Use the pusher from step 2. Set the micrometer as you did in step 3.

14. Rest the pusher on the new jewel and then press down the jeweling lever on your frame. The micrometer will stop it from pushing the jewel past the proper fit.

15. Check to see if the watch part using the hole has a proper end-shake. You’ll need to rely on whatever literature exists for your watch.

16. If you have to reset the jewel, adjust the micrometer stop and reset the jewel.

17. If friction type settings are loose in the plates or bridges of your watch, you’ll need to tighten it by closing the hole.

18. Use a taper mouth closing punch. (K&D punches 31 through 38A. Moseley E1 through E9).

19. A taper mouth closing punch draws soft metal in and reduced the size of the a jewel hole.

20. Select a punch slightly smaller than the setting.

21. Place the setting on a flat face stump, center it and tap the punch. You will see a groove that will help create a tight fit. Proceed at a slow pace as this tightening process will incorporate trial and error.

I wrote this as a high level view of the jeweling process. The entire scope of jeweling is a body of knowledge in itself. Never-the-less, I found this information helpful. It took the mystery out of the process for me.

[Click on image to enlarge]