Watchmakers Archives - Adelstein-Workshop

What’s your mission at Adelstein Workshop?

Tom Adelstein — Sat, 16 Mar 2024 16:42:30 +0000

Our mission is to empower watch owners by providing essential tools for their passion. Globally sourcing and meticulously restoring timepieces, we stand as a premier destination for Rolex and other esteemed watch brands’ repair and restoration services.

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Incredible Historic Tools for Watchmakers

Tom Adelstein — Thu, 21 Dec 2023 23:02:28 +0000

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Vintage Watch Tools To Look For

Tom Adelstein — Mon, 28 Aug 2023 21:45:34 +0000

Lower Your Start-up Costs with Vintage Watch Tools

In 2023, the US Bureau of Labor Statistics estimated that US firms employed about 1800 watch repairers. Compare that number, when the Saint Louis Fed estimated: “Employment of watch repairers at more than 25,000 in 1963.” They also believed, “employment opportunities will continue to be good through the 1960’s and in the longer run for experienced watch repairmen who have established reputations for doing high quality work.”

What Happened?

Of the 1800 watch repairers the US Bureau of Labor Statistics identified in 2023, most worked for manufacturers. A few had their own shops and considered themselves independent contractors accepting work from various jewelry stores and from individuals through the Internet.

On March 26, 2023, the New York Times ran an article entitled, Can’t Buy the Watch You Want? It’s Partly a Lack of Watchmakers. The subtitle read: With student enrollments down and retirements rising, Swiss brands worry that growth will stall.

The first two paragraphs by Roberta Naas read:

“The watchmaking world is facing an unprecedented problem: a severe lack of watchmakers who can build and repair timepieces as well as technicians, engineers and other skilled workers. That has contributed to such severe supply problems that they could stall growth, especially at top-end brands.

“There is a true shortage of manpower,” Aurélie Streit, vice president of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, said during a recent video interview from the organization’s Geneva headquarters. “Not only watchmakers, but also specialists in the 15 other watchmaking jobs, from precision mechanics to engineers, finishers, polishers, research and development,

Who Will Fill the Gap?

In the US and Europe, hobbyists have taken to watch restoring. The evidence exists on watch forums such as watchyouseek.com and in the UK at WatchRepairTalk. YouTube has seen a large influx of watch repair “how to” videos from around the globe. Even

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Watchmaker Staking Tool Sets

Tom Adelstein — Fri, 13 Jul 2018 20:25:00 +0000

Watchmaker Staking Tool Sets

Punches and Stumps Reference

Vintage watch collectors place Kendrick and Davis (K&D) tools at the height of value. They revolutionized the repair and service industry with innovations such as the Inverto staking frame, canon pinion remover and other balance tools. Today, watchmakers like me can use tools they made in the early 1900’s.

The company dominated the market in terms the number of tools sold. I have their staking tools, bench blocks, balance screw holders, canon pinion removers and so forth. Why? I cannot find new tools to accomplish the same tasks.

Before quartz watches and replaceable movements became available, US jewelers and watch companies (like Hamilton, Elgin and Bulova) employed about 65,000 watchmakers. The United States had robust competitive suppliers and parts houses. Today, about 1800 watchmakers work in the industry according to Kansas City Federal Reserve Bank. Tool manufacturers do not find the US a viable market.

In the early years, companies innovated, but few made their components backward compatible. Also, documentation doesn’t exist for cross referencing. I searched and found materials for my own use and chose to make them available to my readers.

Stubs to Inch to MM conversion chart
[click to enlarge]

This article exists to provide you with the various reference numbers of staking set punches and stumps for their respective frames.

Over their 98-year history, the company made only a few models. You can use the information here to make purchase decisions.

I use preowned watch tools. Hopefully, this information will help watchmakers and collectors identify their holdings.

Kendrick & Davis referred to their first staking set as No. 5. It came with 32 punches and 8 stumps, and they wrote in their catalog that the 5 and 5B were the same as the Hall Staking Tool. It did not have a die binding mechanism or the sustaining friction sleeve.

This organization produced a second model known as the “New Design”. The new design staking frame came in five configurations.

No. 12 100 punches, 24 stumps
No. 13 76 ” 20 “
No. 14 60 ” 18 “
No. 15 50 ” 14 “

They bundled the Models 12 -15 with a revolving base or a box and also offered a revolving base with a handle, known as an AH. The Model 16 came later with 120 punches and 30 stumps.

When the changed their Inverto Models 17 and 18, the frames looked the same as later models having a knurled punch sustainer or knob at the top of the sleeve to secure a punch from moving.

You can find models included the 17, 18B and 18R plus the 600 series still in existence. The box can confuse since most of they have the model 18 on the name plate regardless of what’s inside.

Punches and Stumps

If you buy a staking set, more likely than not, you will find punches of different sizes with different numbering systems. For example, a round face hollow punch with a .045 mm hole might be stamped 83 K&D, A 56 K&D or simply 7. Also, those punches can differ in length to fit the frame model from which they came. For example, the Inverto punches have the shorter length.

Another twist in numbering comes with the New Design model frame. Models 12, 13 and 16 use the letter number format (A xx), while 14 and 15 use the Inverto number format (xx K&D).

The company does not make staking sets as of 1998, so anything you buy will be used. More likely than not, you will find a mixture of punches with different numbering schemes in your sets. That’s not always the case, but you might want to examine the charts listed below. Focus on the Stubs Chart above. The older punches use the Stubs steel wire measure and later ones use millimeters.

K&D used Stubs Steel Wire gauge to identify the size of the hole in early punches and millimeters in later models. In a some cases, K&D used the same number on different punches.

The stumps also differed according to era. When pocket watches prevailed, the stumps had different shapes and sizes than when bracelets (strap or wrist watches) came into vogue. Inverto sets used different punches than “Specials” and “New Designs”.

In my pile of punches and stumps, I have found other branded ones, especially Moseley, Boley, GF and Swiss Standard. It took a couple of years, but I found some conversion charts for punches and cobbled several charts together.

Back to the company. You find size and type charts for K&D punches and stubs.

[Click on an image to enlarge]

Punches for Inverto No. 17, 17 A, 18, 18A

Punches for 16A & B

Punches and Stumps for 16 A & B

Punches and Stumps for 12, 12A and 12B

Punches and Stumps for 13, 13A and 13B

Punches and Stumps for 14, 14A and 14B

Punches and Stumps for 15, 15A and 15B

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Hamilton Watch Company Technical Data (How-to Service Bulletins) 1930-1948 DOWNLOAD

Tom Adelstein — Wed, 03 Sep 2014 23:59:00 +0000

I lost track of the number of times I needed help with repairs on old Hamilton wristwatches. For ten years, I searched for service manuals and had no luck. I expected a handbook and now I know that the company never printed one. Instead, Hamilton issued service bulletins, known as Technical Bulletin.

In 2011, I moved to Paris, TX to attend watch school at the Texas Institute of Jewelry and Horology. Unfortunately, Department regulations prohibited any variance from existing curriculum, and Hamilton movements did not exist in the syllabus.

I have yet to find all the Technical Data Bulletins Hamilton published. I did find most of the TD’s and included them in the PDF below. I haven’t found TD105 or TD106, yet. If I do find them, I will add them as soon as possible and update this page.

Please feel free to download the 46+ page PDF at this link: Hamilton Technical Data (Bulletins).

The download is free.

Enjoy!

Tom

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Watchmakers Staking Tool Conversion Chart Punches – PDF Download – UPDATED

Tom Adelstein — Sun, 24 Aug 2014 19:22:00 +0000

I can count the number of times I needed a punch to stake a balance staff and didn’t have the exact size I needed in my K&D set. I had dozens of punches made by other manufacturers. I had to eye-ball them until I saw one that came close.

I could have saved hours of sorting through stakes, if I had a conversion chart. I had Boley, Marshall, Bergeon and others. I had a feeling I could match the numbers up if I found catalogs with sizes and shapes.

It took weeks to find the catalogs (especially the ones from Europe) but I did it. Then I had to match the various punches and I did.

I used Microsoft Excel and created a table and filled it cell by cell. I don’t horde and I know that many of my friends and customers would like this chart. I’m making it available to you.

Here it is:

Complete Staking Punch Conversion Table – Free PDF download.

And, here is a link to search staking tools on eBay.

Staking Tools Search on eBay

I hope this helps you in your endeavors to use tools successfully.

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Staking Tools and How to Use Them by Kendall & Davis Co. Full 163 Page Version

Tom Adelstein — Mon, 19 May 2014 15:45:00 +0000

Why is this book so scarce?

Collectors have bought them up, people have not returned them to libraries, they deteriorated in watchmaker shops or people threw them away. If you don’t recall, K&D printed this book as a catalog. They added the “how to” as a bonus to bring in orders for their products. I don’t believe the people at K&D expected it to become the definitive book on staking tools.

Right click link to download:

Staking Tools and How to Use Them 1910 – 163p BW – S.pdf (adelstein-workshop.com)

Why hasn’t someone reprinted it?

People have printed several versions of this book over the years without permission. K&D reprinted parts of the second half – known as “the last 50 pages” – in other catalogs. The last purported owner of the company implied that he only reprinted the second half because the original products were extinct.

What exactly does this book contain that’s so important?

When I think about this question, I remember how little watchmakers tools have changed since the Gilded Age. K&D already had the Inverto when the book became available. You have the opportunity to see their entire line of staking tools. That’s an extensive amount of information. At the time, the company already had the models 17 and 18 – (though very different than the ones we see today).

K&D explained the various punches and why the Inverto convention changed the length of the punches and the necessity for every stump.

It helped one identify the different numbering schemes. For example, the original scheme used a number, such as 10. Next, the “New Design” or 500 series used a letter – number scheme such as A14. After the Inverto, the scheme had sequential numbers with a “K&D” imprint, such as 40 K&D. The book provides information about each type of punch and the size or diameter of the hole or punch end.

They also explain the use of each punch and stump. That’s important information. Then they explain the different jobs that the watchmaker can accomplish with the different tools. They also explain how to do each job.

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K&D Kendrick and Davis Balance Tools for Truing, Poising and Staffing

Tom Adelstein — Tue, 13 May 2014 01:29:00 +0000

Do you ever venture over to the section known as watch tools on eBay? If you have, you’ll notice it’s a busy market. You can find it by navigating from All categories to Jewelry and Watches, then select work your way through all the sponsored headings and hopefully, you will find a listing of vintage tools. To save you the trouble, here’s a link:

Vintage tools on eBay

I used to just check the preowned section under “Condition” and suddenly all the used watch tools appeared. Then I select the gallery view up in the right corner.

Once you get there, you mind find it mind-boggling.

If you don’t know what you are doing, you face a huge disadvantage if you want to shop in the watch tools and repair kit area. Who knows if the prices are fair? Which tools go together? What if it’s broken?

For the reasons mentioned above, I put kits together to accomplish specific tasks. Aside from my own knowledge, I look at books from Fried, De Carle, the Chicao Watch School, Joseph Bulova’s Watch School manual and Technical Guides from Hamilton, Elgin and so forth. I want to know what you’re reading. Are my kits perfect? Probably not, but they are complete and the prices are fair.You won’t buy a $10 screw cutter for $55 because someone found a watchmaker’s estate when cruising flea markets and garage sales and thought they struck it rich.

This kit is designed to let you work on watch balances. The tools help you remove the hairspring, the roller table and a broken staff. When you replace a broken staff, you’ll need staking tools, which I’m not offering in this kit. After replacing the staff, you will use tools in this kit to true and poise the the balance wheel before re-installing it.

Here’s what I included:

K&D Collet Remover Fork to remove Hairspring
Hammel, Riglander V-Shape Table Remover for Large to Medium Size Roller Tables
Large K&D Table Remover with Handle Lever for Pocket Watches and Large Caliber Straps
Staking Block for Positioning and Holding Balance
Adjustable K&D Roller Remover for Staking Frame for Small to Medium Size Bracelet, Strap and Smaller Pendants
Screw Undercutters for Poising Balance Wheels
K&D Calipers For Truing the Balance
Caliper Brush used with Truing Calipers
Hammel Riglander Poising Tool with Jeweled Jaws- no chips
Air blower – Light Stream Control for Poising Tool
Balance Adjusting Wrench to Straight Wheels with Truing

Normally,you would have to assemble a balance tool set by purchasing them separately. In many cases, some of these tools do not show up for as long as one year. I understand since I assembled it.

Why these tools? As I wrote above, these provide you with the items you need to accomplish that task.

If you want to use this list as a guide, be my guest. Any of the books you read about repairing watches, will have you use tools like these or similar – the things you need to get the job done. If you want to see this offering at eBay, click here.

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K&D Kendrick and Davis 18B Inverto Staking Frame

Tom Adelstein — Sun, 11 May 2014 20:33:00 +0000

The Model 18B staking frame is the sturdiest frame made by K&D. It’s the successor to the Model 17. The Company manufactured these for watchmakers wanting a large die plate and a strong anvil.

This frame shipped without jeweling tools, however, K&D made a jeweling attachment if a watchmaker wanted that functionality. Before K&D added jeweling capabilities to their frames, many watchmakers bought a K&D Inverto and coupled it with a Seitz Jewel Staking Set.

K&D made the 18B for watchmakers who wanted a large die plate and a heavy base.

Note the difference between the 18B and the Model 600. The 18B frame has a 50mm diameter and the 600 has a 35mm diameter die plate.The model 600 is smaller overall and made for hobbyists.

Also note the difference between the model 18B and the 18R Deluxe. It’s difficult to tell, but the 18R has a 45mm die plate versus the the 18B’s 50mm.

View One on Ebay

[Click on image for large view]

Warning: You may find a model 600 advertised as an 18R. K&D shipped the smaller frame in an 18R box. People that do not know the difference will claim the kit is an 18R. Also, K&D only made one knob for the 18 series and they all say 18R.

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A slip of history: Kendrick & Davis K&D and the Staking Tool

Tom Adelstein — Wed, 30 Apr 2014 04:34:00 +0000

When we hear stories about the origins of Kendrick and Davis – the watchmakers’ tool manufacturer – most of what we learn has publicist written all over it. The K&D Key Co. disappeared on May 10, 1887. A fire swept through Lebanon NH and destroyed 80 buildings including K&D.

At the time, Frank Kendrick did not work as a watchmaker; he was an entrepreneur. He was also one of the builders of Everett Knitting Mill and served as President and Director. At the same time, he held the position of Vice President and Director of the National Bank of Lebanon. He also represented Lebanon NH in the state legislature in 1889.

What about K&D? The fire destroyed the company. Kendrick saw little reason to rebuild it since the watch key business had unwound and Frank had other businesses to run.

In 1891, the inventor of the staking tool, Jonas G. Hall, died. A man, named F.L. Herrick, bought Hall’s business from Jonas’ widow, but he couldn’t restore it to profitability. The company didn’t do well without the founder. Herrick sold it to Fred Roys and Melvin Chase. Ironically,in 1889, the factory burned down and no one had enough motivation to rebuild it.

Something to remember: K&D never purchased Hall’s business or any of its assets.

In 1894, one of Hall’s former employees, Willard Crozier, brought Hall’s staking set to Kendrick. Seven years after fire destroyed K&D, Frank brought Kendrick and Davis back to life. Mr. Kendrick saw an opportunity and financed a start-up with Willard Crozier making staking tools for watchmakers.

In the company’s catalog, K&D acknowledged their Model 5 & 5B staking sets as exact replicas of the Hall tool. They didn’t hide. They had no reason to do so. Hall’s factory burned down and no one wanted to rebuild it.

Click to enlarge

With financing and facilities in place, Mr. Crozier contacted Lester Williams and recruited him. Williams joined K&D and re-invented the staking tool calling it the “New Design”. K&D listed it as their model 500 series. Williams filed a patent for the New Design in 1902 and assigned it to Kendrick and Davis, a common practice followed even today between employee and employer.

The 500 improved on the Hall design by changing the distribution of weight, which steadied the base. It also added features including a friction sleeve and a cam type die binder. If you want to understand it, you can read Mr. Lawrence’s words below.

Why is this important? Gaining knowledge about watchmakers’ tools helps us learn to select and use them. Aside from that, you can hear the historic Mr. Lawrence’s voice in his words below.

Click to enlarge

My invention relates to improvements in watchmakers’ staking-tools, and has for its object the production of a tool of this character wherein the punch or plunger may be sustained within its guide in any desired position relative to the base to permit it to be withdrawn from and held free of the of the wheel without necessitating its complete withdrawal from the guide.

A further object is to provide a tool wherein the mechanism for setting the face-plate is capable of adjustment to facilitate the assembling of the tool, to compensate for wear through use on the various parts, or to accommodate this action to the requirements of the individual workman.

The invention consists in the novel features of construction hereinafter set forth and described, and more particularly pointed out in the claims hereto appended.

Referring to the accompanying drawings,

Click to enlarge

Figure 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a staking tool embodying the preferred form of my invention.

Fig. 2 is plan view thereof. Fig. 3 is a view of the bottom of the face-plate detached from the base.

Fig. 3 is a view of the bottom of the face-plate detached from the base.

Fig. 4 is a view in perspective of the preferred form of the means of sustaining the punch or plunger.

Fig. 5 is a section on the line 5 5 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view of the face-plate detached from the base.

Fig. 7 is a view showing a modified form of the means for sustaining the punch or plunger.

Fig. 8 is a section on the line 8 8 of Fig. 7.

Fig. 9 is a view showing a still further modified form of said means, and

Fig. 10 is a plan of view of the modification shown in Fig. 9.

Like letters refer to like parts throughout the several views.

In the accompanying drawings, “a” indicates the base of the staking-tool, which is provided with the usual openings to permit the mounting thereon of the face-plate “b” and the escape of she expelled staff.

This base-plate also carries the arm or gooseneck “c”, which has formed thereon the guide-sleeve “d”, the opening in which is in alignment with the said escape-opening.

The face-plate “b” is provided with a central opening presenting a beveled surface to increase the area of frictional contact and insure a more perfect centering of the said plate, a vertical bearing-face, and a series of graduated openings equidistant from a common center to accommodate punch or plunger or other tool of different diameters, said plate being rotatable to permit said openings, respectively, to be brought into alignment with said escape-opening and said guide, sleeve.

The face-plate is maintained in the proper position relative to said base a by means of the pivot—pin “e”, provided with a conical head fitted to the opening in and flush with said plate.

Extended through the lower part of this pin is an opening adapted to receive a shaft “f”, having in its length a reduced eccentric or cam portion “f”, acting in said opening, by means of which the pin e is drawn downward-or forced upward to bind said face-plate against it or release it from engagement with the base a to set it or permit it to be rotated, respectively.

This shaft “f” is seated in a bearing formed in the base “a”, said bearing being on both sides of the opening for said pivot-pin “e”.

The reduced eccentric or cam portion “f” forms shoulders adapted to bear upon reverse sides of the pivot-pin “e” to hold it in position.

This shaft extends without said base, and its exposed end is equipped with a knurled head by which it is manipulated.

The various parts are all finished and must be finely adjusted, as the device must act with the greatest accuracy.

To facilitate such adjustment, I provide a compensating-screw “g”, acting in the lower portion of the pivot-pin and against the eccentric or cam “f’”, by means of which the throw of said cam maybe regulated so as to overcome any slight irregularities in finish in assembling, wear from extensive use, or to suit the individual“ workman.

Acting in the guide—sleeve is a punch or plunger “h”; by means of which the staff is expelled from the wheel.

The guide-sleeve “d” is so arranged that said plunger may be sustained therein in any desired position relative to the face-plate, so as to be capable of being lifted free from the work to enable the temporary use of other tools without requiring the complete removal of the said plunger or punch.

In the preferred form of my invention, as shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 4, I enlarge the upper portion of the guide-sleeve “d” and countersink therein a sleeve “i”, provided with a plurality of spring-tongues “i1 12″, carrying, respectively, a semicircular bearing-face, as “i3 i4″, adapted to partially encompass and frictionally engage the punch or plunger “h”. This sleeve “i” may be secured within the guide sleeve d in any desired manner; but preferably it is made a “driving fit.”

In the modification shown in Figs. 7 and 8, I dispense with the sleeve “i” and merely employ a plurality of spring-tongues, as “j j’”, seated within the guide-sleeve “d” and partially encompassing the punch or plunger. These tongues are inserted through openings made in the guide-sleeve and are secured in this relation by means of a screw-plug “k”, hearing against their-outer ends.

In the modification shown in Figs. 9 and 10, I provide a plurality of spring-tongues “m1 m2″, which extend obliquely downward from the top of the guide-sleeve “d”, penetrating a chamber therein which is provided to permit a slight lateral movement of the lower ends of said springs. These tongues are secured in position in any desired manner; but preferably, holes are drilled, and said tongues are driven therein, being a tight fit.

The operation of my staking-tool in so far as has not already been disclosed is as follows: The staff of the balance or other wheel having been fitted in the proper opening in the face-plate “b”, the clamping mechanism is released by means of the knurled head “f4″, which rotates the shaft “f” and the eccentric or cam portion thereof. This forces the pivot pin “e” upward until it is freed from engagement with the face-plate “b”. The said plate is then rotated until the proper opening is in alignment with the escape-opening in the base and with the plunger – guide sleeve. When it; is properly centered, it is set in this position by reversing the action of the cam. If it is found that; the throw of the cam is into properly release or clamp said plate or that there is a tendency to give too much motion to these parts to accomplish the desired result, this may be remedied by resetting the screw “g”. A smooth action of this mechanism is assured by reason of the double bearing for the shaft “f” and the shoulders “f2 and f3″, which are always in engagement with the pivot-pin e on reverse sides thereof, owing to the reduced diameter of the cam portion “f’”.

The operation of the sustaining spring tongues is substantially identical in the preferred form of my invention and in each of the modifications herein shown and described.

As the punch or plunger is inserted in the guide-sleeve d its end will spread the spring tongues, causing them to engage the sides thereof. This engagement will be sufficient to sustain the weight of the punch or plunger, but will not interfere to any extent with its reciprocation while in use.

If it be desired to examine the work in hand, to employ other tools upon it before the complete expulsion of the staff or to temporarily cease this operation for any other reason or purpose, it is merely necessary to raise the punch or plunger to the necessary height, and the spring-tongues will hold it in this position until it is desired to resume its use. This not only facilitates the work in hand, but obviates the necessity of a repeated refitting of the plunger to the guide-sleeve and the resulting annoyance.

It is not my intention to limit my invention to the precise construction herein shown and described, as it is apparent that there may be many deviations therefore without departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having described the invention, what I claim as new, and desire to have protected by Letters Patent, is—

1. In a staking-tool, in combination a perforated base, a punch or plunger, a guide therefore, and means adapted to frictionally engage said punch or plunger whereby said punch or plunger may be sustained in said guide in any desired position relative to said base.

2. In a staking-tool, in combination a perforated base, a punch or plunger, a guide therefore, and. means comprising a plurality of spring-tongues adapted to engage said punch or plunger whereby it may be sustained in said guide in any desired position relative to said base.

3. In a staking-tool, in combination a perforated base, a punch or plunger, a guide therefore, a means comprising a sleeve countersunk in said guide and a plurality spring-tongues carried thereby and adapted to engage said punch or plunger whereby it may be sustained in said guide in any desired position relative to said base.

4. In a staking-tool, in combination a perforated base, a punch or plunger, a guide therefore, and means comprising a sleeve countersunk in said guide a plurality of spring tongues carried thereby and bearing-surfaces carried by said tongues and adapted to engage said punch or plunger whereby it may be sustained in any desired position relative to said base.

5. In a staking-tool, in combination, a perforated base, a punch or plunger, a rotatable face-plate carried by said base, a pivot-pin connecting said base and said plate, a cam whereby said pivot-pin is reciprocated to release or clamp said face-plate and means comprising an adjustable contact carried by said pivot~pin and acting against said cam whereby the throw of said pivot—pin by said cam maybe regulated.

6. In a staking-too1, in combination, a perforated base, a punch or plunger, a rotatable face-plate carried by said base, a pivot-pin connecting said base and said cam whereby said pivot-pin is reciprocated to release or clamp said face-plate and a set-screw carried by said pivot-pin.

7. In a staking-tool, in combination a perforated base, a punch or plunger, a rotatable face-plate carried by said base, a pivot-pin connecting said base and said face-plate having an opening extending there through, a shaft seated in said base and extending through said opening a portion of said shaft being reduced and eccentric, said portion being within the opening in said pivot-pin, whereby shoulders are formed to bear upon the reverse sides of said pivot-pin, and said face-plate may be released from or clamped against said base.

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