Category: Watchmakers

This post derived its material from the 1910 book, “Staking Tools and How to Use Them”.  You’ll find a PDF download link at the bottom.

The material in this post remains relevant today. You will find the writing somewhat archaic.

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What’s Friction Jeweling any way?

In 1924, Hamilton took credit for the first improvement in jeweling since Nicolas Facio patented the use of jewels in watches in 1704. Hamilton called their system “improved jeweling”. Now, the Swiss claim they invented friction jeweling, but they haven’t produced any names or dates to substantiate their claim that I can find.

Let’s look at what Hamilton said. First, they claimed that as a  result of years of experimentation and research, that they came up with the “Hamilton Improved Friction Jeweling” method.

They then demonstrated it on the 989 18/0 watch movement.

While difficult to decipher from the image above, the 989 did not have bezel rings holding their jewels in place. You can see the difference in the two types of jeweling methods in the  photos below.

Hamilton released its first 987 caliber wristwatch movement with beveled edged jewels.This method held the jewels in with a screw-held ring. If you take a close look at the image on the left, then you can see two small screws holding a ring over each jewel. Hamilton released the next version of the 987 with friction jewels after the 989 proved it worked.

Little information exists on who actually manufactured the first friction jewels. Since Hamilton bought their jewels from Swiss companies, we can guess that the jewels came from Switzerland. Regardess, design and manufacturing techniques for watch jewels improved around the time Hamilton produced the 989 and subsequently. the 987E.  Hamilton began using jewels able to hold their position with friction alone, which cut down on time and effort to manufacture and service movements.

In this small post, we can look at how K&D and Moseley recommended replacing friction jewels.

The method for replacing a broken or dysfunctional jewel involves:

1. Measuring
2. Knocking out the old jewel and
3. Setting a new jewel.

Once you discover the simplicity of friction jeweling, anxiety about it will fade. Let’s go through the steps so we can move forward in our understanding of watch maintenance and repair.

1. Select a jeweling stump with a hole larger than the jewel needing replacement. Place the stump in the die plate of your staking tool and center.

2.      Select a pusher smaller than the jewel needing replacement. Place the pusher in its holder and secure it in the frame sleeve.

Staking Frame with Micrometer

3. With the exception of Balance Jewels, use the pusher to adjust the micrometer. For example, place a watch bridge on the stump facing up. Rest the pusher on the old jewel and adjust your micrometer to limit the movement of the pusher. Jot down the setting on a piece of paper and use it when setting the depth for the replacement jewel.

4. Lower the micrometer stop and press on the old jewel to remove it.

5.  If you have friction type jewel with an undamaged hole, skip the next two steps.

6. If you need to refinish the hole, pick out one of the reamers. Make sure it is large than the existing hole.

7. You can now ream the jewel hole for your replacement jewel.

8. Again, use the holder for the reamer and place it through the staking frame’s sleeve.

9. Don’t let the reamer go further than a millimeter into the hole.

10. Turn it to create a smooth and appropriate size hole.

11. Use a cone miller to remove any burrs from the edges of the hole.

12.  Now, you can place the jewel in the reamed out hole. Make sure the oil cup is face down.

13.  Use the pusher from step 2. Set the micrometer as you did in step 3.

14.  Rest the pusher on the new jewel and then press down the jeweling lever on your frame. The micrometer will stop it from pushing the jewel past the proper fit.

15.  Check to see if the watch part using the hole has a proper end-shake. You’ll need to rely on whatever literature exists for your watch.

16.  If you have to reset the jewel, adjust the micrometer stop and reset the jewel.

17.  If friction type settings are loose in the plates or bridges of your watch, you’ll need to tighten it by closing the hole.

18.  Use a taper mouth closing punch. (K&D punches 31 through 38A. Moseley  E1 through E9).

19.  A taper mouth closing punch draws soft metal in and reduced the size of the a jewel hole.

20.  Select a punch slightly smaller than the setting.

21.  Place the setting on a flat face stump, center it and tap the punch. You will see a groove that will help create a tight fit. Proceed at a slow pace as this tightening process will incorporate trial and error.

I wrote this as a high level view of the jeweling process. The entire scope of jeweling is a body of knowledge in itself. Never-the-less, I found this information helpful. It took the mystery out of the process for me.

You may download a PDF of this post and/or for an extensive treatise by J Bulova click here .

Respectfully submitted

If you have followed this website you know that the focus has changed. The transition began before Christmas 2013.  I’ve gone from showcasing Hamilton wristwatches for identification to a broader mission.

The emphasis on Hamilton Watch Company remains, and will encompass tracking of wristwatches and pocket watches. Economic conditions affect the price of Hamilton products. I don’t see this as a simple pause. I feel it’s important to share information about the buying and selling of watches.

When people say that time marches on – I don’t see time marching in the streets like a college band or a military parade. Let’s just say, people have trouble finding parts for old watches. Even the popular watches sold in jewelry stores after World War II are one-half a century from their date of manufacture. No one makes parts for old watches.

I collect watches 80-120 years old. You won’t find many parts for those. I’ll keep an eye on suppliers and let you know about those.

Hamilton provided very little documentation for the repair and service of their watches before World War II. The company expected a trained and qualified watchmaker to know what to do. Watchmakers apprenticed.

You will also find documentation to help you service and repair older Hamilton watches.

I have also ventured into finding and identifying vintage watch tools. Finding information on those strange looking creatures venturing out of the closets of deceased watchmakers requires unending research. In the process, I have found documentation on the history of companies that made the tools we all want to use and buy (or sell).

For those of you wanting more information about Hamilton watches from a micro point of view, I follow a blog that should give you what you want.

HandyDan’s website known as the Hamilton Chronicles  provides a rich source of information on Hamilton Wristwatches in particular. I recommend you make it a part of your reading and research.

Back to this blog’s focus:

I wrote the following information in an earlier post:

For watchmakers and hobbyist who do maintenance or repair on Hamilton movements, you probably have found a need for a staking set. If you’re like me, you only have training for balance wheel staking. I’ve bought a number of books, downloaded PDFs, dug material out of watchmakers manuals. I have spent too much money and had little return.

I found a PDF of the original K&D manual in the public domain. It’s similar to two different ones I bought. I uploaded it to Zamar and used their conversion tool. I converted it to a HTML file and rebuilt it in MS Word. It’s now back in a PDF format. If you would like to download it you can do so here.

K&D Staking Set 18R Deluxe – The Last K&D Product C1997

If you want to save yourself the hassle looking for other materials, I bought a printed book that helped me understand staking tools.

You don’t need a library of staking tools – just one book.

RECOMMENDED

The Watchmakers Staking Tool by Pierce. Mike the Watch Guy re-published it and sells it on his eBay store as well as on Lulu.com. Just Google: Mike the Watch Guy and you’ll find it.

Staking Tools and How to Use Them

This download is not for the book recommended above.  I’ve provided  the original K&D manual – Copyright 1910 and now in the public domain. (Still Relevant).

I added charts as appendixes to help identity the function of K&D and C&E Marshall Moseley punches and stumps.

Good luck.

People know Kendrick and Davis or K&D for their staking sets. From 1903 – 1997, the company owned the staking tool market.

People also knew K&D for their other tools and accessories. Recently, I tried to chase down one of their model train engine catalogs, for example. I would like to see that.

During K&D’s prime years, you could consider them comparable in design and quality to today’s Bergeon tools.

I buy and use vintage K&D tools. You can guess that my staking set belongs to the K&D family.

Here are some other tools I have found useful for staffing balance wheels.

The balance block can be used like a staking frame die-plate on which to hold the balance. People use the curved collet fork to remove the balance spring.

You can consider the adjustable balance table removers stumps as essential.

Once you restaff the balance wheel and use your punches and stumps to remount the everything, the collet wrench helps you line up the components of the escape mechanism and put the watch “in beat.”

They’re still useful today.

(click on any image to see it individual in a larger format).

Directions

Select proper hole in Staking Tool die to let hub of staff through: place balance with staff to be removed in same. Set remover over same and insert its pu!1ch through staking tool and
main body of remover. Holding punch in position over.. pivot with finger of right hand tighten knurled remover nut upwards against staking tool arm.

Stop arm of remover will swing against body of Staking Tool and prevent body of tool turning while tightening knurled sleeve. Do not over tighten this sleeve:

it is not necessary. Now strike punch a sharp blow with light hammer and staff will come
out without injury to Balance; riveting of staff simply being sheared off.

NO. 50 BALANCE STAFF REMOVER

In ordering our No. 50 measure the gap between your Staking Tool die and bottom of Goose Neck. Table below will show the size

No. 50 which will fit your Staking Tool.

“K.& D” No. 50 Will fit any S. T. Staking Tools No. Sizes Die Gap of #18 Series #600 Series
1 1-8in. ‘7-8in. 1 3.16in. 1 1-16in.

All the above No. 50 sizes can be furnished for Bracelet size Balances but in ordering add
the letter “B”.

This is a  K&D 18R Deluxe Staking Set in Mint Condition. Made in the mid-1990’s, it sold new for $1500. This is one of the finest staking sets ever made.

On December 18, 2013, the sale price for this set at auction went for

The Model 18B staking frame is the sturdiest frame made by K&D. It’s the successor to the Model 17.  The Company manufactured these for  watchmakers wanting a large die plate and a strong anvil.

This frame shipped without jeweling tools, however, K&D made a jeweling attachment if a watchmaker wanted that functionality. Before K&D added jeweling capabilities to their frames, many watchmakers bought a K&D Inverto and coupled it with a Seitz Jewel Staking Set.

K&D made the 18B for watchmakers who wanted a large die plate and a heavy base.

Note the difference between the 18B and the Model 600. The 18B frame has a 50mm diameter and the 600 has a 35mm diameter die plate.The model 600 is smaller overall and made for hobbyists.

Also note the difference between the model 18B and the 18R Deluxe. It’s difficult to tell, but the 18R has a 45mm die plate versus the the 18B’s 50mm.

Warning: You may find a model 600 advertised as an 18R. K&D shipped the smaller frame in an 18R box. People that do not know the difference will claim the kit is an 18R.